Sweet Dreams

In time for Valentine's Day: eight entrepreneurs in the thrall of fine chocolate.

There's a reason Willy Wonka holds such a revered spot in our collective imagination. Who wouldn't want to run a chocolate factory? The Aztecs made 2,000 pitchers of sacred chocolatl a day for the elite, and Emperor Montezuma drank little else. These days, whether it's a kiss or a truffle, chocolate remains one of the most craved substances civilization has to offer. And lately, more American entrepreneurs are making it better. The market research group Packaged Facts counted 187 American brands of upscale and gourmet chocolate in 2004--more than twice as many as in 2000.

We've rounded up a group of entrepreneurs whose confections rival those of their European peers. Predictably, most were professional chefs who decided that chocolate was more fun. But temptation also lured two bankers and one songwriter to the calling.

For the brave task of tasting these chocolates, we called on connoisseur Barry Swanson, who has spent more than 10 years researching the science behind sweets as a professor at Washington State University. Most of the chocolates he sampled were truffles, which have a brittle outer layer, called the couverture, with a high percentage of cocoa butter, and ganache (a creamier chocolate filling) in the center. "The higher the concentration of cocoa products you put in--cocoa and cocoa butter--the better the chocolate," he explains. The fresher, the better, which is why some of these companies insist on shipping two-day air or faster. "The ones with the freshest cocoa butter feel cool on the tongue," says Swanson. Here are some of the coolest chocolates (and chocolatiers) around.

• B.T. McElrath Chocolatier

  When Brian McElrath was studying at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco, he became enamored with fusion and chocolate. "You can make people happy with food," he says, "but with chocolate, it's amplified." McElrath and his wife, Christine, opened their Minneapolis chocolate factory in 1996 using a home equity loan. His truffles combine flavors such as Zinfandel with balsamic vinegar and lavender with pepper.

  Chocolate of note
  Passion fruit truffle

  The taster says
  "The couverture is smooth and crisp, and the white and dark chocolate with the acidic passion fruit mousse is delightful."

  $28.50 for a 15-piece assortment,
  btmcelrath.com

  "It's fabulous that people finally regard chocolate as something worth paying for. They finally don't believe we're so expensive."
  Fran Bigelow
  Fran's Chocolates

• Fran's Chocolates

  When Fran's opened in Seattle in 1982, the market for high-priced artisan confections was minuscule. Founder Fran Bigelow initially sold pastries before introducing a line of truffles--now the company's top seller. Compared with many younger chocolatiers, with their assertive and surprising spices, the 62-year-old Bigelow prefers subtlety in her recipes.

  Chocolate of note
  Raspberry truffle

  The taster says
  "Fran's chocolates are tempered to be in the most stable crystalline phase, so they melt at body temperature. The couverture is brittle, crisp, and wonderfully rich."

  $24 for an 18-piece assortment,
  franschocolates.com

• Vosges Haut Chocolat

  In her eclectic recipes, Katrina Markoff likes to mix bold flavors from international cultures--including curry, wasabi, chili powder, and balsamic vinegar. Markoff, who holds a B.A. in chemistry and a degree from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, founded Vosges as a single Chicago boutique in 1998, and now oversees a $6.5 million business with four retail stores.

  Chocolate of note
  Black pearl truffle

  The taster says
  "The slightly spicy couverture tastes very fresh and cool and contrasts with a distinctive ginger and wasabi ganache."

  $37 for a 16-piece assortment,
  vosgeschocolate.com

• Jacques Torres chocolate

  After 12 years as a high-brow pastry chef, Jacques Torres wanted to bring his confections to a larger audience. In 2000, he and some friends transformed a Brooklyn warehouse into a café and chocolate manufacturing plant. Today the Brooklyn location makes individual chocolates, while his new shop in Manhattan makes and sells treats such as bisque-thick hot chocolate flavored with chipotle chili peppers.

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