Founded 1857, Chicago

"In addition to retail and mail order, we used to do a small wholesale business selling to bars and restaurants around town, but that all ended January 1, when a no-smoking ordinance in Illinois went into effect. I think the ordinance will improve our in-store business, because we're one of the only places left where people can actually go and smoke. We just finished building a 1,200-square-foot members-only lounge. If you can't roll and change and adapt, you're going to be dead."

-- Kevin Levi, 37, general manager, fifth generation